29 March 2012

Roaming the streets of Barcelona: The 29M general strike as it happens

Waking up this morning it occurred to me that, rather than spend the day on the ground at various 29M actions across the city and writing about them (possibly days) later, it would be more interesting to take to the streets with netbook and wireless usb in hand -- documenting the strike day as it unfolds in Barcelona. 

Consider this my own little version of Leopold Bloom's long day's wander through Dublin.  I can't promise sirens, or a cyclops, but I can promise Iaioflautas and more than a few tense stand-off's between armour clad Mossos and protesters, ideally remaining non-violent whenever they occur. 

So check in throughout the day to find out what's going on as I wander about town, from strike action to strike action. 


10.34am: Awake after more cans of Estrella than initially planned last night. A quick morning coffee on the terrace -- It's extremely quiet outside. Taking a glance across to the flats that surround my own and everyone seems to be home. There is a school a few streets above, further up into the hills, which appears to be open. 

11.01am: The Guardian has a live blog providing brief updates from the strike across the country. No, I'm not going to link to it, because why would you want timely updates from a well respected, highly professional daily newspaper when you can get sporadic updates from some nutjob with a blog? On second thought, it does provide a wealth of information covering what's happening in the rest of the country, so have a look. So far they are reporting 58 arrests at various strike actions across the country . Most have been peaceful, but there has been some violence. One particular photo of a man who's had his face bloodied, apparently by the police. It is worth noting that tomorrow, 30th March, Prime Minister Rajoy of the Partido Popular will announce a budget that's expected to bring the most severe cuts yet in austerity Europe. 

12.25pm: Finally ready to leave the flat and venture down into the action. Transport in the city is down to a skeleton crew to make sure the public can still get to where they need to be, but it will take longer than normal. I'll be walking down into the barrio of Gracia first, as it's nearest to where I live and there are several actions planned there this afternoon. 

1.33pm: I left the flat and walked along Pi i Margall toward Gracia. At Carrer de Providencia I turned right, heading for Carrer Verdi. Most of the shops are shut, particularly the small, independently owned businesses. The major banks are open, and a few seem to be paying the price for it. At the corner of Providencia and Rabassa, a La Caixa outlet has "29M" and " Vaga General" spray painted in large black letters across its glass door and windows. Along the narrow streets of Gracia, the same slogans can be found sprayed on the asphalt, using a stencil template. There are posters and leaflets advertising the strike plastered on buildings all over the barrio. I arrived too late to Placa de Villas to see the assembly that had gathered there. A few stragglers remained, banging on pots and pans and blowing little whistles. 

1.41pm: A woman still mulling about the Placa informed me that a crowd was gathering at the top of Passeig de Gracia where it intersects with Avignuda Diagonal. This is where I am now, watching the crowd gathering around the obelisk that sits dead in the centre of the intersection. They have their pots and pans as well. Catalan flags are waving. And literally as I type this, 5 or 6 Mossos police vans have driven directly into the crowd on the street, breaking them up. Helicopters are hovering overhead. More later. As they say in Britain, it's all kicking off. 

2.02pm: Chaos in the streets, and fire on Rossellon . I've mentioned before that the Mossos don't fuck about, and today is no exception. Twenty or so of their midnight blue vans are constantly swarming in and around the crowds on the streets. Small battalions of the vans will suddenly stop, open their doors, and armed police stream out, launching into the crowd and striking indiscriminately at the nearest body. The people run for safety when each door opens and the Mossos rush out. I am on Rambla de Catalunya now, close to Carrer de Rossellon where a fire has broken out. Dark smoke is billowing out of a building no one can get very close to, as the police have blocked off access. Five more Mossos vans have just driven past behind me, heading south on the Rambla.

2.28pm: The fire, it turns out, was caused by a pile of garbage that had been thrown into the middle of the street and set alight. From a distance it first seemed to be coming from a building. It seems to have gone quiet around here. The Mossos vans are still driving in an erratic manner around Passeig de Gracia and Rambla de Catalunya, but their sirens have been turned off, for now. Even with a sort of calm returning to the ground, the hum of the helicopters strafing by above the city streets is constant.

4:23pm: The city wide free wi-fi administered by the local government has gone down.  I cannot say whether this has been done on purpose, with the intention of disrupting communication between activists on the streets, or if something unrelated is causing the problem. The last hour has been relatively quiet, but Passeig de Gracia now belongs to the people. Cars are being diverted from entering the famous street. People are walking freely up and down the lanes. A large statue has been placed on the lane that usually takes traffic north toward Av. Diagonal. The largest demonstration of the day begins at 6pm, when mass crowds are expected to gather at Placa de Catalunya, Barcelona's central square. To add to my own troubles, my netbook has died suddenly, and I am now forced to send updates via mobile phone. Expect typos.

5:24pm: At either end of El Corte Ingles department store the Mossos have barricaded the doors and are standing watch. A group of protesters have gathered at both doors, loudly chanting in disapproval as shoppers either enter or exit the store. The doors are flanked on either side by police vans, and steel railings keep the shoppers separated from the strikers. Occasionally a loud bang, either an explosive or something heavy toppling over, will ring out nearby. The crowds are swelling as 6pm approaches. Union members have started to arrive, making their labour association visible, they are wearing neon yellow vests.

 
6:06pm: Last update before the march, more than likely. Once it begins, judging by the growing crowd, texting updates will prove a little difficult. People are descending upon Placa de Catalunya in an endless stream. Flags, from the Catalan national to that of Greece, are waving high in the air. Horns are being sounded throughout the crowd. A thick column of protesters are preparing to move up along Passeig de Gracia. The numbers keep increasing. This has all the makings of an epic manifestation.